Győr,
"The town of waters" situated half way between the Austrian and
the Hungarian capitals at the meeting point of the rivers Danube, Rába
and Rábca, is the third most important monumental town in the country.
During the course of long, hectic centuries it has been inhabited by Celts
and Romans, nominated bishopric see by the first Hungarian king, Stephen
I, invaded by the Tartars, mortgaged to the duke of Austria, seized by the
Turks and conquered even by Napoleon's troops. It is a significant school
town, Jedlik Ányos, inventor of the dynamo, is only one celebrity among
many who once taught there. Most of its protected buildings are to be
found within the 16th century walls.
The
bishopric palace on Chapter hill (Káptalan domb) stands opposite the
pompous Baroque cathedral which was founded in 1030, built for centuries,
and is about the same age as the Hungarian state. The herma and the
reliquary of the head of king Saint Ladislas (Szent László) are
exhibited in the Gothic chapel. These masterpieces of medieval jewellery
were made on the occasion of the king's canonization. The treasury is the
second richest collection in Hungary.
Artefacts
of the ceramicist Kovács Margit are permanently presented in Kreszta
house and sculptures by Borsos Miklós are also on display. Both artista
were born in Győr.
Only
about twenty kilometres from Győr
the traveller catches sight of the Monastery of Pannonhalma,
which has been functioning for over 1000 years. This place has witnessed
much of Hungarian history. It recalls a number of national diets, peace
treaties, a successfully beaten attack of the Tartars, domestic struggles
of the Árpád dynasty, Turkish invasion, great fires and restorations.
This fortress of Hungarian Benedictines, this illustrated "picture
book” of European art history from Romanesque to Classicism was
undoubtedly worthy of being registered as Worid Heritage site by UNESCO. A
whole day should be dedicated to discovering the monastery and admiring
its priceless treasures. The crypt contains the oldest parts of the
church. As tradition has it the abbot's seat was the throne of Stephen I.
The first catalogue of its invaluable library dates back to 1090. Today
over 250 000 volumes are kept bere. The charter of the cloister from
Stephen I dated 1001, and the earliest written record of the Hungarian
language, the founder of the Tihany Abbey from 1055 are the most precious
pride and joy of the archives. The arboretum also offers a memorable
experience.
Sopron,
the second richest Hungarian town in historic monuments was awarded the
Europa Prize, the international gold medal for the protection of
monuments. In old times the town was developed by local craftsmanship and
supported by various
patrons. It offers an abundance of rare sights. The Fire Watch-Tower (Tűztorony),
symbol of Sopron was founded in Roman ages. The bulk of the tower is
Romanesque, the middle part is typically Renaissance, whereas the steeple
is from Baroque times. The
13th century Goat Church (Kecske-templorn) served as a coronation and
parliamentary site. The old medieval Gothic Synagogue now is a museum. The
old Storno House (Stornó-ház) too, famous for is luxuriantly decorated,
covered balcony functions as a museum.
The
Collection of Catholic Art (Katolikus Egyházművészeti Gyűjtemény) can
be seen in Ursula Church (Orsolya-templom), the Lutheran Collection (Evangélikus
Gyűjtemény)
is on display in the Baroque vicarage, and the wonderful medieval
Madonna-statue stands in Saint Michael (Szent Mihály) parish church. You
will eventually
come across a church that does not even exist. The 17th century pulpit in
the yard of the Renaissance Eggenberg House, recalls the times when
Lutherans were
only allowed to praise the Lord in the open air.
The bustling cultural life of Sopron is a reward in itself. The annual
“Spring Days” in March and the “Sopron Festival" in the summer
are the most outstanding programmes.
The
University of Sopron gives home to the oldest area "Lővérek"
is enfolded pine forest. Looking down from the nearby Károly look-out
tower a marvellous panorama unfolds.
Kőszeg
- There is hardly a prettier "gate" to the country than the tiny
little town of Kőszeg near the Austrian border. Nature is abundant, the
air is aiways fresh, the fields are a deep green, hilltops glisten with
snow, and gargantuan chestnut trees colour the town in the autumn. Steep
Alpine rocks unit here with tender Pannonian slopes. Practically
every building in town has its own story - tenants, builders, functions,
styles or dates make them each remarkable. Kőszeg is a real living
art book.
The
central Jurisics square, once surrounded by
a city wall, recalls pass centuries. The
partly Gothic building decorated with heraldic paintings and loop-holes
has been functioning as a town hall since the 15th century. lf tired by
sightseeing one may as well sit down in Saint James Church (Szent Jakab
templom), which was built around 1405 on the site of a demolished church
from the 13th century. A Gothic statue of
the Madonna adorns
the high altar. One of the oldest, medieval houses in Kőszeg
is Ambrózy
House (Ambrózy-ház), and the city wall was also used as main wall of Lábasház
(a house with pillars). Sgrafitto House (Sgrafittós-ház) was named after
the decoration of its facade. The portal of Chernel-house, old home of the
well-known ornithologist István Chernel must also be noted.
The
castle houses an exhibition of archaeological finds, historical relics as
well as weapons and utensils from Jurisics' times. The
most prominent commander of Kőszeg castle was Captain Miklós Jurisics.
In the battle of 1532 he and his troop of only a few hundred defenders
were able to save the castle and the town from the attack of the hundred
thousand Turkish soldiers set off for Vienna. Several chronicles describe
their heroic struggle. According to most resources Captain Jurisics let
Sultan Suleyman II put the Turkish flag symbolically out on the tower
ofter a 25 days long, unsuccessful siege. At 11 o'clock the Turkish troops
finally gave up and retreated. As a remembrance of their glorious victory
the bells toll every day at 11 o'clock even in present times.
Savaria,
or
Szombathely today
was founded by the "divine" emperor, Claudius in 43 BC as one of
the Northern outposts of the empire. The town prides in, is well aware of,
its traditions and consciously keeps them alive. Relics are appreciated,
sites of ancient pomp have been laboriously unconcealed and memories of
long forgotten times have been carefully collected. Iseum, the largest
sanctuary of the Egyptian Isis-cult found in the Pannonian territory is
among the most precious prides of the town. "Amber route"
(Borostyánkőút) the famous trade route connecting the Baltic sea
with the Roman Empire lead across Savaria. The once perfectly fitting
saddle-shape pavement mosaics can still be admired. The largest
Transdanubian museum Savaria Museum owns a significant coliection of
relics
from Roman ages.
At
the end of the 18th century Szombathely was appointed
bishopric see and
Baroque slowly prevailed. Evidence of this time are the bishopric palace,
the seminary and the monumental cathedral, one of Hungary's largest
Baroque churches. The old synagogue functions today as Bartók Béla music
school and music hall.
The
13th century Benedictine abbey church, standing in the middle of the
village of Ják, but noticeable from already a great
distance, is the most significant rnemory of Romanesque architecture in
Hungary. The original arches of the portal the three nave basilica is
owe-inspiring. A few statues of the apostles are somewhat damaged. The
invading Turkish troops are likely to be liable, as any representation of
human faces is forbidden by the lslam.
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