In order to become really familiar with a country or a region you must sample the everyday dishes of the area. Goulash soup (Gulyásleves) is a meal which is known virtually all over the world. In fact, delicious-smelling goulash, red with paprika, is one of the most typical Hungarian dishes. It probably originates from herdsmen living on the Puszta, who spent practically all of the year in the open with their herds. Since there remained little time for cooking, the least labour intensive, simple but filling dishes were preferred, such as goulash soup.

The different varieties of stew, or "pörkölt", were prepared from pork, veal, beef, mutton, or in some cases, fish. The meat was sautéed with onions and paprika, some water was added and then it was seasoned richly.

Of course meat was not always easy to come by. Some home-made noodles, onions, potatoes, a little smoked bacon, some hot green pepper were brought forth and through the work of expert hands, a nutritious soup called "lebbencsleves" was prepared.

"Shlambutz", also prepared from dried noodles and potato, was the outdoor meal of Hortobágy herdsmen. The flavour, aroma and colour of such dishes is best when they are prepared in a stew-pot over an open fire. lf you are lucky you may have a chance to taste some of these delicacies at larger events such as the Hortobágy Bridge Fair.

It was a feast when stuffed cabbage, Nyírség dumpling soup, slightly sweet dill and cottage-cheese filled "béles", and cabbage, or sour cherry strudel ("rétes") were put on the table. These dishes were almost exclusively prepared by the women.

The typical dishes of the Great Plain - puszta pörkölt, Great Plain sirloin ad fish soup - are important elements of Hungarian cuisine, popolar with so many people. The preparation of most Hungarian dishes begins with frying chopped onion in lard or oil and mixing this with red pepper. The famous red pepper of Szeged and Kalocsa is identified with Hungary throughout the world. But it was only in the 16^th-17^th centuries, during the years of Turkish rule, that this vegetarle and spice, also known as Turkish pepper, was introduced. Since its production outside the Turkish empire was strictly punished, for a long while people grew this spice plant in secret, in some hidden corner of their gardens. At first a tincture of paprika was used as a medicine against malaria. Anyone looking for daring gastronomic adventures can still taste paprika brandy in some places.

Paprika really became widespread as a spice in the 19^th century. Since the climate of the Great Plain can be regarded as ideal for its cultivation, the fields there seem to be a sheet of flame when the harvest is ripe. Before grinding, the peppers must be dried, but even this operation has its secrets which influence the colour and character of the finished product. lf minced paprika paste is placed on your table together with fish soup or pörkölt in a Hungarian inn, it would be wise to use it with caution. It is added to dishes to give a really strong, hot flavour for people who like them that way. The other important vegetarle and spice plant of this region is the onion. The onions grown at Makó are famous for their flavour and for keeping well. And if we add that 500 years ago the water of the Tisza River could be used for drinking and according to old records, a bucket of water drawn from the river was sure to have a fish in it, it is easy to understand why fish soup came to be one o the most popular local specialities. The ingredients required are: water, salt, onions, fish and paprika. Fish soup in the Szeged way is made from several different kinds of fish, the more the varieties the tastier the dish.

Another famous local food, Pick salami, has a history of its own. In the 19^th century there were men of numerous nations imprisoned in the fortress at Szeged. A local butcher, Márk Pick, hired Italian workers from among the prisoners. It is said that the first Szeged salami was made with their help. After smoking, the special humid micro-climate in the stores beside the Tisza River coated the thick salami with a fine layer of grey mould. This not only conserved the sausage but also gave it a characteristic flavour. Hungarians call it winter salami since it could only be made in cold winter weather; during the summer, without refrigeration and air-conditioning the meat could not have been kept fresh. The genuine Szeged salami is made of pure pork and the spices used to flavour it remain the secret of the salami masters.

The sandy soil and sunny climate of the Great Plain favour vine cultivation and the light table wines produced here are excellent accompaniments to Hungarian dishes. The area around Kecskemét is one of the country's orchards. Apricots and apples are the most widely grown. They are used not onlyfor excellentfruitjuices, but alsofor the fragrant and potent Kecskemét apricot brandy, a popular appetiser.