The last right-bank station
of the Danube Bend is Esztergom, the Western gate of the region.
‘Here
is the Hungarian Rome!' wrote Mihály Babits, one of the greatest poets of
the last century, about
Esztergom in one of his works. Indeed, this city has been the capital of Hungarian catholicism for
a thousand years, it has been the residence of archbishops.
When approaching the borders of Esztergom the first thing that
catches the eyes even from the distance is the huge Cathedral, the
Esztergom Basilica, built in Classicist style, which crowns the
Castle-hill. Here, in
the city which was the capital of Hungary for more than 250 years was born
the first Hunganan king Saint Stephen in the second half of the 10th
century and he was also crowned here at Christmas of the year 1000. This
is the date of the foundation of the Hungarian state.
The cathedral which crowns the
Castle-hill is visited by ten of thousands of people not only because of
its fascinating size but also because of the Renaissance 'gem', the Bakócz
chapel located in a 19th century building and because of the
world-famous ecclesiastical collection of the Cathedral's Treasury. The
Hungarian archbishops, aamong them the martyr Hungarian pontiff Cardinal
Mindszenty, are buried in the crypt of the cathedral.
Only a few meters away from the Basilica we can see the
royal (later archiespiscopal) palace, the ancien nest of the Árpád
dynasty, which looks grandiose even in its ruins. The originally Romasque
palace group which was rebuilt several times in different ages used to be
one of Europe’s most beautiful castle whose beauty was noted by the
French king, Louis VII who visited the place and by the chronicles of
Frederick Barbarossa, the Holy Roman Emperor.
Looking
down into the nearly 80 m abyss from the terrace of the royal palace we
can see the view of the ancient city and the river which flows with
dignity in its bed. We can see far from here
both in time and space! Centuries before the foundation of the state there
used to be a Romun fortress of Solva Mansio in the place of the palace;
the emperor Marcus Aurelius could watch his legions crossing the river
from here. The Hunganan kings also delighted
in the
sight of the almost completely circular panorama for centuries. From this
point 5 ranges of mountains can be seen, and when the weather is clear even
the peaks of the Low Tatras can be made out!
Below
the most beautiful building of the Víziváros (Water Town the
Neorenaissance Pri- mate’s Palace rises, which is, at the same time, the
home of Hungarys biggest provincial gallery called the Christian Museum. The
gallery is extremly rich in Hungarian, Austro-German and Italian Medieval
paintings and sculptures but its goldsmith's
work and tapestry collection is also known all over the world. From the
terrace of the palace we can see not only Esztergom's sky-high towers and
other relevant monuments but also the thermal bath with its cool water
inviting for a longer stay, the hundred year old alleys of the Primate’s
Island.