The last
right-bank station of the Danube Bend is Esztergom, the Western
gate of the region.
Esztergom is the seat of the archbishop
of Esztergom, the primate of the Hungarian Catholic Church.
St. Stephen (970?-1038), the first Hungarian king and founder
of the country, was born in the castle erected here in
around 970.
Built on Castle Hill in the first half of the 19th century,
the Classicist cathedral on Szent István tér
is the country's largest church with the world's largest
altarpiece, painted on a single piece of canvas. The cathedral
incorporates the early 16th-century
red marble Bakócz
Chapel, the only intact Renaissance edifice in Hungary.
The Treasury of the Cathedral exhibits the richest collection
of Hungarian ecclesiastical art of some 400 items. The private
royal chapel, the frescoed castle chapel and a rose window
in the vicinity of the cathedral are remainders of a Romanesque
royal palace. The Castle Museum in the restored halls of
the palace of Árpád kings traces the history
of the castle in Esztergom. The head of the Hungarian Catholic
Church resides at the Primate's Palace, which also houses
the Christian Museum exhibiting the most valuable pieces
of medieval Hungarian fine arts. The Baroque ambience on
Széchenyi tér is created by middle-class houses
and the City Hall. Topped by two spires, its parish church
(1724-28) is a unique monument of Italian Baroque architecture.
‘Here is the Hungarian Rome!' wrote Mihály
Babits, one of the greatest poets of the last century,
about Esztergom in one of his works. Indeed, this
city has been the capital of Hungarian catholicism for a
thousand years, it has been the residence of archbishops.
Here, in the city which was the capital of Hungary for more
than 250 years, was born the first Hunganan king Saint Stephen
in the second half of the 10th century and he was also crowned
here at Christmas of the year 1000. This is the date of the
foundation of the Hungarian state.
The Hungarian archbishops, among them the martyr
Hungarian pontiff Cardinal Mindszenty, are buried in the
crypt of the cathedral.
Only a few meters away from the Basilica there is the royal
(later archiespiscopal) palace, the ancien
nest of the Árpád
dynasty, which looks grandiose even in its ruins. The originally
Romasque palace group which was rebuilt several times in
different ages used to be one of Europe’s most beautiful
castle whose beauty was noted by the French king, Louis VII
who visited the place and by the chronicles of Frederick
Barbarossa, the Holy Roman Emperor.
Looking down into the nearly 80 m abyss from the terrace
of the royal palace the view of the ancient city and the
river which flows with dignity in its bed can be seen. Centuries
before the foundation of the state there used to be a Roman
fortress of Solva Mansio in the place of the palace; the
emperor Marcus Aurelius could watch his legions crossing
the river from here. The Hungarian kings also delighted in
the sight of the almost completely circular panorama for
centuries. From this point 5 ranges of mountains can be seen,
and when the weather is clear even the peaks of the Low Tatras
can be made out!
Below the most beautiful building of the Víziváros
(Water Town) the Neorenaissance Primate’s Palace rises,
which is, at the same time, the home of Hungary’s biggest
provincial gallery called the Christian Museum. The gallery
is extremly rich in Hungarian, Austro-German and Italian Medieval
paintings and sculptures but its goldsmith's work and tapestry
collection is also known all over the world.